Change Motorcycle Engine Oil

Before you start changing your motorcycle engine oil, you must place the tools you need within reach. Include tools such as wrench, screwdrivers or pliers just in case the filler caps have been tightly screwed. You should also prepare rags and containers for the used oil. Your motorcycle must be placed in an area that you can afford to get dirty, messy and greasy after the changing process. It is advisable to raise your motorcycle using the kick-stand rather than the side or rear stands. Place the container under the motorcycle where you think the oil is going to flow.

The next thing that you should do is to warm up your engine. This is to soften any hard particles in your engine oil. Then turn the engine off to cool for a bit. Proceed removing the filler cap when the engine is slightly warm. This enables the oil to drain quickly. Use necessary tools if it is tightly screwed.
Locate the drain plug and doff it so that the oil would drain. During the last few turns at the drain plug, be cautious since the hot oil may start to spill out anytime soon. Make sure that the empty can is ready for the draining oil.
Remove the filthy drain plug crush washer and install a new one. Drain plug crush washers are either made from copper or aluminum. It is a small disc to be placed under the drain plug that helps in sealing the motorcycle engine oil. Drain plug crush washers are also made to bend under pressure. More or less, drain plug crush washers value at a dollar each - which means they're really very affordable, hence, there's simply no excuse for you not to get several pieces! Every month, or every time you change your motorcycle engine oil, make sure that you install a new drain plug crush washer afterwards.

Using a clean rag, wipe the tip of the oil drain plug. This is to remove small metallic particles in the magnetic part of the drain plug. Little pieces of silvers of metals are shed by the motorcycle engine. These tiny pieces are usually jammed at the edge or at the tip of the drain plug.

Look for the oil filter in your motorcycle. The location of the oil filter varies or depends on what motorcycle model you have. It is best to consult your manual so that you won't have a hard time finding it. Remove it tightly screwed filter using a filter removal tool. See to it that a rubber ring comes along with the filter as you take it off.

Clean the area of the motorcycle where the oil filter is located. Dip your finger into the fresh oil and use it to wipe the dirt on the location of the oil filter. Then carefully screw back a new oil filter.
Put the drain plug back and fill it up with new motorcycle engine oil. Make sure that it is already grime-free and fastened securely to prevent the oil from spilling. Put only an ample amount of motorcycle engine oil that is specified in your motorcycle manual.

By Mel Raskinski

Motorcycle Riding in the Rain

By J. Blake

Dull grey skies today, a steady heavy rain, poor visibility. An opportunity to impress the crowd with a textbook demonstration of wet weather riding skills.

Starting with hardware. Motorcycle in good condition, especially tyres, the grooves good and deep to channel away water, no letting them wear flat with constant upright motorway riding, no messing about trying to extend their life because they look okayish. A helmet that won’t mist up. Clothes waterproof and breathable, they’re four years old now, never had any maintenance, I can ride through a downpour all day and not have a speck of moisture on me, miracle of modern fabrics. No trivial matter, comfort, a safety issue, you can tough stuff out for a while but it wears you down, you need your attention on staying alive not whether your feet are cold. Hi viz belts and bands, you can’t tell how many times you stay alive because some unnoticed driver sees you and doesn’t mow you down, but over time it’ll be quite a few.

Fifty percent increase in the safety bubble in front. Partly to stay out of the spray. Partly because braking distances are longer. Partly because if there’s trouble, you don’t brake, you accelerate. Braking puts the weight on the unstable front wheel, accelerating puts it on the stable back wheel. So you need space to accelerate into. Also, ride in a lower gear, use it to slow down without braking or accelerate without delaying.

Be real careful changing lanes, cars often leave their headlights off and they’re damn near invisible. Otherwise don’t worry about what’s behind you, let the hi viz stuff protect you there, concentrate on the trouble up front.

Ten mph slower than normal. That’s the deal. If you abrogate speeding limits to your own judgement, your position is a lot more compelling if you sometimes go slower, not always faster.

The game is, every time you hold back, you get a gold star. Here’s a gap I’d normally take, not today, one gold star. That doesn’t mean you have to be cowed and subdued, in fact often in the rain there’s an even greater need to filter past stuck traffic, just do it with less relish. Then collect the gold stars. But any rashness or impetuosity, all gold stars cancelled, start again.

Ten minutes later than normal for work, but a half hour margin allowed anyway, just for such contingencies. And about fifteen gold stars. Good start to the day.

Simple Tips on How to Clean Your Motorcycle

By Mike Webb

Cleaning your motorcycle can be a hassle, but with periodic care you can make it easy on yourself. Depending on where you ride and how often will determine how frequently you need to clean.

1. Wash your motorcycle in a shaded area so as not to let the soap dry too quickly and leave a film.
2. Make sure the engine has cooled down before washing with soap and water. When using a hose don't spray too hard around the engine so you won't short out the ignition system. If you have an air compressor use the air gun to blow out as much moister around the engine area as possible to dry it out.
3. Regular car soap will work best along with a wash mitt that will allow you to get around the areas of the bike. When you want to get to the really small nooks and crannies use a soft bristle toothbrush.
4. Wax all painted areas of the bike, there are many waxes available on the market to use, I just stick to the basic turtle wax, it's been around for years, but you might like to shop around.
5. Using an SOS pad can clean up minor rust on chrome pieces. Make sure you put a coat of wax after clearing.
6. Depending on your seat style you may want to use a leather treatment or possibly Armor All on the vinyl seat. Just remember it's going to be a little slick when you get done.
7. If your bike has a chain make sure you lubricate it properly after washing and check for any other areas that might need to be re-lubricated.
8. Lastly if you have a nice motorcycle cover then use it to save the hassle of cleaning so often.

Having a clean motorcycle makes it a lot more fun cruising.

Take care and drive safely.

2-Stroke Cycles

By Mary Long

The two-stroke cycle of and internal combustion engine iffers from the more common four stroke cycle by completing the same four processes (intake, compression, power, exhaust) in only two strokes of the piston rather than four. This is accomplished by using the space below the piston for air intake and compression, thus allowing the chamber above the piston to be used for just the power and exhaust strokes. This causes there to be a power stroke for every revolution of the crank, instead of every second revolution as in a four-stroke engine. For this reason, two-stroke engines provide high specific power, so they are valued for use in portable, lightweight applications. On the other hand, large two stroke diesels have been in use in industry (i.e., locomotive engines) since the early twentieth century.

Power/exhaust: This stroke occurs immediately after the ignition of the charge. The piston is forced down. After a certain point, the top of the piston passes the exhaust port, and most of the pressurized exhaust gases escape. As the piston continues down, it compresses the air/fuel/oil mixture in the crankcase. Once the top of the piston passes the transfer port, the compressed charge enters the cylinder from the crankcase and any remaining exhaust is forced out.
Compression/intake: The air-fuel-oil mixture has entered the cylinder, and the piston begins to move up. This compresses the charge in the cylinder and draws a vacuum in the crankcase, pulling in more air, fuel, and oil from the carburetor. The compressed charge is ignited by the spark plug, and the cycle begins again.

In engines like the one described above, where some of the exhaust and intake charge are in the cylinder simultaneously the gasses are kept separate by careful timing and aiming of the transfer ports such that the fresh gas has minimal contact with the exiting exhaust which it is pushing ahead of itself.

Motorcycle Accessories for Under 100 Dollars - Five Rider Favorites

By Jim Thompson

If you're gift shopping for your favorite motorcycle rider, it can be easy to overspend your budget. Many of the most popular accessories like a riding jacket or exhaust system can easily cost several hundred dollars. And with many high-end parts, there may be additional time and expense for the installation.

But not all popular bike accessories cost a fortune. With a little help, you can find plenty of motorcycle accessories for under a hundred dollars that are sure to please the biker in your life. So if you have a motorcycle fan on your shopping list, here are five gift ideas that they’re sure to like but won’t land you in the poor house.

1. Tool bags

A smaller alternative to a full set of motorcycle saddlebags, good-quality tool bags are available for under $50-$60. Having a few essential tools on the road can be a real lifesaver for a rider. Most tool bags mount to the front forks or sissy bars with hook and loop straps that most manufacturers include with purchase. Like full-sized saddlebags, the best-value tool bags are made of synthetic leather.

Look for tool bags that are designed with reinforced plastic so they maintain their shape over the long haul. And help keep valuables secure by looking for tool bags that include lockable buckles – many of the $50 models I’ve reviewed are the lockable variety.

2. Gas Tank Chaps/Bibs

A great way to complement the look of a new set of saddlebags, tanks chaps quickly add a custom look to a bike. Tank chaps fit under the gas cap or tank speedometer and rear tank mounting hardware. Almost all models have a scratch-resistant backing that will not harm a bike’s paint job.

Tanks chaps are available in genuine or synthetic leather, are a snap to install and are custom fit for each bike’s tank shape. Many also include a small storage pouch for a phone, wallet or keys. Most tank chaps are typically priced between $50 and $100.

3. Custom Brake & Clutch Levers

Aftermarket bike levers gives you a real bang for your buck. For around $20, you can get a new pair of custom chrome or alloy finish levers designed to fit each model bike. In addition to adding a custom look, custom levers are much more comfortable than stock levers. The wider design is easier on the fingers, especially when your rider’s caught in stop and go traffic.

For about the cost of a takeout dinner, you really can’t go wrong with a new pair of aftermarket levers.

4. Chrome Side Covers

Add a healthy dose of chrome to a motorcycle without needing a single wrench. Chrome side covers look great and replace the standard painted covers in a snap. The only catch is the covers are one of the more expensive accessories on our list – with prices starting at $95.

Side covers are designed specifically for each make and model bike and are typically sold in pairs. A great add-on if you’re looking for a custom part that offers your rider some instant gratification.

5. Saddlebags

Because they are so handy, saddlebags are the first accessory I get for a new bike. Saddlebags are essential for the long rides but also great for quick trips to the store. Even the smallest saddlebags can save a rider from cramming all of his or her stuff uncomfortably into pants pockets or riding jacket.

Many folks don’t realize you can get decent saddlebags for as little as $50. Smaller, throw-over saddlebags that hang from the seat or rear fender and do not require support brackets. I recommend synthetic materials over leather as they are more weather resistant and are typically less expensive than genuine leather models.