New To Motorcycles? Learn The Basics

By Daniel Levy

SUMMARY: Interested in motorcycles? Who can blame you! Motorcycles reek of coolness, but before you jump into the motorcycle riding scene, you need to learn the basics of the bike!

Stand Up Straight Please

It's mind boggling how they do it, but motorcycles stay upright while they are moving due to some pretty advanced physics. A still motorcycle will lean over without some sort of support. But a moving motorcycle will stay upright without much effort thanks to a couple of little things called angular momentum and torque.

To see these physics at work, imagine that you're holding a bat in your palm with the heavy end up. It's going to tip over, right? It's too unsteady. Now imagine that you're wiggling your palm in an effort to always keep it directly under the heavy end of the bat. Suddenly the bat is steady. That's how motorcycles stay upright.

Driving forward on a motorcycle thanks to the power and torque provided by the engine, the rider (or the palm in our example) is constantly moving the bike (the bat in our example) to keep it directly inline with the center of gravity (that is, the heavy end of the bat in our example).

Yes, I know I am over-simplifying with this example. But in fact, it's basically the forward momentum and the rider constantly adjusting the center of gravity that will keep the motorcycle upright.

Going, Going, Go

Regardless of the varying motorcycle designs produced over the years, most bikes include some pretty standard operating configurations.

One of those is the arrangement of elements in the steering mechanism (the handlebar). On the right handle is the throttle and twisting it backward will give the engine more gas so the machine will accelerate (as long as the brakes are off). On the left handle is the clutch lever. Pulling it in and then releasing it will enable you to change gears. Some motorcycles have automatic shifting, but they are far and few between.

The gearshift on a motorcycle is normally under the rider's left foot. Riders will squeeze the clutch lever (left hand), ease off the gas (right hand), and move the gear shift up or down (left foot). Releasing the clutch (left hand) and twisting the throttle backward (right hand) will make the motorcycle move forward.

As you can see, there's a lot of left-right hand and foot action going on here and it's going to take a bit of practice to get it right. It'll be difficult to grasp at first, but with some practice, it becomes second nature.

Stopping the Motorcycle

Now that you know how to "go," it's time to learn how to stop! Attached onto the right handle grip is the front brake lever. This lever gives the motorcycle most of the friction it needs to slow down (about 80%). The friction is caused by pads squeezing against a metal disc (or drum in older bikes) in the center of the wheel. Since this particular lever is so powerful, it can even flip a bike if it's pulled too fast especially on downward slopes.

The rear brake lever is next to the right footrest. When it's pressed, it engages the rear brake mechanism. Push it too hard and you will make your rear tire skid.

Both, the rear brake lever and the front brake lever, will eventually bring a bike to a complete (but not necessarily) controlled stop if used individually. It's the correct combination of front and rear break power that will bring a bike to a smooth stop. Constantly pumping either one however will unduly wear your brakes down and loosen their effect ahead of time.

Bikes that have linked braking systems work a little differently. With this kind of system, the rear brake works with the front break because it engages part of it. As with the more traditional types of brake systems on a motorcycle, it's the combination and simultaneous use of both brakes that creates smooth stops.

So now you know how to go and stop. But what about turning the motorcycle off in an emergency? Almost every motorcycle today has a kill switch you can use in case need to hurry up and turn the thing off for whatever reason (failing brakes, you fall off, etc.).

Is that all I need to know?

Of Course not! There's a lot more to motorcycle riding but the above should give you a good idea of the overview.

Not all motorcycles operate in the same manner so some of things will work differently -- especially if you're attempting to ride an older bike that uses a kick starter! Newer models may offer GPS systems, custom suspension, and electronic de-fogging mirrors -- things that I haven't even touched on.

Remember to always wear your protective gear and enjoy the ride!

2-Stroke Cycles

By Mary Long

The two-stroke cycle of and internal combustion engine iffers from the more common four stroke cycle by completing the same four processes (intake, compression, power, exhaust) in only two strokes of the piston rather than four. This is accomplished by using the space below the piston for air intake and compression, thus allowing the chamber above the piston to be used for just the power and exhaust strokes. This causes there to be a power stroke for every revolution of the crank, instead of every second revolution as in a four-stroke engine. For this reason, two-stroke engines provide high specific power, so they are valued for use in portable, lightweight applications. On the other hand, large two stroke diesels have been in use in industry (i.e., locomotive engines) since the early twentieth century.

Power/exhaust: This stroke occurs immediately after the ignition of the charge. The piston is forced down. After a certain point, the top of the piston passes the exhaust port, and most of the pressurized exhaust gases escape. As the piston continues down, it compresses the air/fuel/oil mixture in the crankcase. Once the top of the piston passes the transfer port, the compressed charge enters the cylinder from the crankcase and any remaining exhaust is forced out.
Compression/intake: The air-fuel-oil mixture has entered the cylinder, and the piston begins to move up. This compresses the charge in the cylinder and draws a vacuum in the crankcase, pulling in more air, fuel, and oil from the carburetor. The compressed charge is ignited by the spark plug, and the cycle begins again.

In engines like the one described above, where some of the exhaust and intake charge are in the cylinder simultaneously the gasses are kept separate by careful timing and aiming of the transfer ports such that the fresh gas has minimal contact with the exiting exhaust which it is pushing ahead of itself.

Motorcycle Helmet

By Mark Byrne

'If you got a $50 head, then get yourself a $50 lid!'

That's the advice I was given before buying my first motorcycle helmet. It's the best buying advice I've ever had too! Choosing a motorcycle helmet is, in the end, a personal choice but it's pretty obvious that you generally get what you pay for.

There are various types, all of which have their strengths and weaknesses. Here's a list of the those available:

Full face motorcycle helmets provide the most protection of all the helmet types and they encase the rider's entire head. You may find some (the cheaper ones) lacking in comfort and freedom.

Hybrid or Flip-up face motorcycle helmets would give you more visibility but, as, if the 'flip' is 'up' it doesn't encase the entire head, the chin is left vulnerable.

Open face helmets also known as a three quarter motorcycle helmets provide protection for the skull, ears and the side of the face. This type of helmet has no chin protection at all. Also you'd need extra eye protection as they would be exposed to the wind, dirt, insects etc.

Shorty helmets also known as a half helmets provide no protection for the chin or the side of the face. Again, as with the open face type you'd need extra eye protection as they would be exposed to the wind, dirt, insects etc.

Motorcycle Helmet Buying Tips

Try on motorcycle helmets a number of times to detect possible 'problem' areas with the fit. Use a mirror to see how the helmet looks on your head; make sure that the helmet rests just above your brow. Make sure the helmet rests tightly against your forehead, you shouldn't be able to get your thumb between the helmet and your forehead. Always check to see if any red marks are showing after you've removed the helmet.

Always make sure that the motorcycle helmet you buy has been Snell certified, or is a DOT approved motorcycle helmet. If not, your insurance cover may be affected - check with your insurance company about this.

Noisy helmets are to be avoided as they distract the rider and cause extra fatigue. Lower quality ventilation systems are chief cause of noisy in helmets. The more aerodynamic the helmet and the better the vents, the less noise there will be. Generally, cheaper helmets are noisy helmets.