Monday, June 25, 2007

American motorcycle IronHorse - the best motorcycle

American Ironhorse Texas Chopper



Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S Polished
Induction: S7S Super G
Exhaust: AIH
Transmission: AIH 6 Speed RSD
Clutch: Primo
Primary Drive: Chain
Final Drive: Belt
Charging Sys: 32 Amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 25 inches
Dry Weight: 650 lbs
MSRP: $30,995
Brakes
Front: AIH 4 piston
Rear: AIH 4 piston
Wheels
Front: 21x2.5
Rear: 18x10.5
Tires
Front: 21/90/90
Rear: 280/18
Suspension
Type: Softail
Front: AIH
Rear: Progressive Suspension
Frame: Daytec
Stretch: 8 In up / 4 In out
Rake: 38 Degrees / +4 Degree Trees
Trail: 3.4 In.
Swingarm: Daytec


American Ironhorse Slammer

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S Polished
Induction: S&S Super G
Exhaust: AIH
Transmission: AIH 6 Speed RSD
Clutch: Primo
Primary Drive: Chain
Final Drive: 1 1/2 in Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amp
Additional Information
Seat Height: 25 inches
Dry Weight: 650 lbs
MSRP: $34,995
Brakes
Front: AIH Dual 6 piston
Rear: AIH 6 piston
Wheels
Front: 21x2.5
Rear: 18x10.5
Tires
Front: 21/90/90
Rear: 280/18
Suspension
Type: Softail
Front: AIH
Rear: Progressive Air Tail
Frame: Daytec
Stretch: 2 in. out
Rake: 38 degrees / +4 degree trees
Trail: 3.4 in.
Swingarm: Daytec Stealth


American Ironhorse Outlaw

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S Polished
Induction: S&S Super G
Exhaust: AIH
Transmission: AIH 6 Speed RSD
Clutch: Primo
Primary Drive: Chain
Final Drive: 1 1/2 in Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 25 inches
Dry Weight: 650 lbs
MSRP: $29,895
Brakes
Front: AIH 4 piston
Rear: AIH 4 Piston
Wheels
Front: 21x2.5
Rear: 18x8.5
Tires
Front: 21/90/90
Rear: 240/18
Suspension
Type: Softail
Front: AIH
Rear: Progressive Suspension
Frame: Daytec
Stretch: 2 in. out
Rake: 38 degrees / + 4 degrees trees
Trail: 3.4 in
Swingarm: Daytec

American Ironhorse Tejas

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S Polished
Induction: S&S Super G
Exhaust: AIH
Transmission: AIH 6 Speed RSD
Clutch: Primo
Primary Drive: Chain
Final Drive: Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 24.75 inches
Dry Weight: 650 lbs
MSRP: $27,995
Brakes
Front: AIH 4 piston
Rear: AIH 4 Piston
Wheels
Front: 21x2.5
Rear: 18x10.5
Tires
Front: 21/90/90
Rear: 280/18
Suspension
Type: Rigid
Front: AIH
Rear: na
Frame: Daytec
Stretch: 8 inches up / 4 inches out
Rake: 38 degrees / + 4 degrees trees
Trail: 3.4 in
Swingarm: NA

American Ironhorse LSC

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S Polished
Induction: S&S Super G
Exhaust: AIH
Transmission: AIH 6 Speed RSD
Clutch: Primo
Primary Drive: Chain
Final Drive: Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 24.5 inches
Dry Weight: 650 lbs
MSRP: $29,495
Brakes
Front: AIH 4 piston
Rear: AIH 4 piston
Wheels
Front: 21x2.5
Rear: 18x10.5
Tires
Front: 21/90/90
Rear: 280/18
Suspension
Type: Rigid
Front: AIH
Rear: na
Frame: Daytec
Stretch: 8 In up / 4 In out
Rake: 38 Degrees / +4 Degree Trees
Trail: 3.4 In.
Swingarm: NA

American Performance Cycles High Roller 240 RSD

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S
Induction: S&S Carb
Exhaust: BUB
Transmission: 6 speed RSD
Clutch: na
Primary Drive: H-D
Final Drive: Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 26 inches
Dry Weight: 625 lbs
MSRP: $31,800
Brakes
Front: HHI
Rear: HHI
Wheels
Front: 21 inch
Rear: 18x8.5
Tires
Front: 90/90-21
Rear: 240mm
Suspension
Type: Softail
Front: 63 1/2 mm inverted 10in. over
Rear: Hidden shocks
Frame: APC
Stretch: 4 in. out / 7 in. up
Rake: 38 degrees
Trail: na
Swingarm: na

American Performance Cycles High Roller S

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 96ci S&S
Induction: S&S Carb
Exhaust: BUB
Transmission: 6 speed
Clutch:
Primary Drive: H-D
Final Drive: Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 26 inches
Dry Weight: 625 lbs
MSRP: $25,995
Brakes
Front: HHI
Rear: HHI
Wheels
Front: 80 spoke
Rear: 80 spoke
Tires
Front: 90/90-21
Rear: 240mm
Suspension
Type: Softail
Front: 10 in. over
Rear: Hidden Shocks
Frame: APC
Stretch: 4 in. out, 7 in. up
Rake: 38 degrees
Trail: na
Swingarm: Softail

Friday, June 22, 2007

Motorcycle for Sale - Three Simple Steps for Getting Top Dollar for Your Bike

By Jim Thompson

When it comes time to sell your motorcycle, there are a few easy ways to help get a higher sale price. I’ve found that the steps below can put more cash in your pocket when it’s time to part with your current bike. Spending an hour or so of your time you can distinguish your motorcycle from the rest of the bikes for sale in your area.

And hopefully, you’re not giving-up on motorcycling with this sale but are planning to put the extra cash you’ll make towards your next bike purchase.

Clean & Polish Your Bike

Here’s where an hour of your time can pay off handsomely. It sounds corny but a clean, freshly-waxed motorcycle gives a great first impression of the bike AND the owner. Most experienced riders know that a super-clean used bike has usually been very well kept. And a well-maintained bike commands a premium price.

You don’t have to go too crazy cleaning, just a basic once-over should do the trick. To get the job done fast, I’ve found a handheld leaf blower is a handy tool to quickly dry off a wet bike before waxing. In a just a minute or two you can thoroughly dry your bike without jamming your fingers in all the crevices. So if you or your neighbor has a leaf blower, give it a try before you dig-out the car wax and chrome polish.

Dig-out All Your Original Parts

If you’ve had your bike for any length of time, it’s likely your have a few original bike parts collecting dust somewhere in your garage. I’m not talking about a worn tire or a bent lever but original equipment that’s still in decent shape. For almost every bike I buy this list includes the original seat, shocks, foot pegs and an exhaust system. These items can add to your sale price and are probably not much use to you anymore.

I’d take the time to dust this stuff off and have handy when you’re showing the bike.

Buyers will appreciate the extras and it won’t cost you a dime to include these parts in the sale. Even if you’ve just got a few smaller parts, they may help motivate a buyer that’s on the fence to make the purchase. Once you’ve found all the extras, do a rough tally of the cost for the new stuff you added to the bike. The total cost may surprise you and it’s a good dollar figure to have handy when you’re negotiation with buyers.

Include Any Accessories You No Longer Need

Once you’ve found the all extra parts for your bike, take a quick look through the house for any accessories that you no longer need. When I’m selling a bike, I like to throw-in any bike apparel or accessories that I’m tired of like old riding gloves, a bike jacket, spare helmet etc. Including last season’s riding gear is another low-cost way to add value to your sale.

And if you’re selling an entry-level bike, newer riders can likely use your old gear. At the very least, it’s a good opportunity to clean out your bike closet. As you find them, do a quick tally of the costs for your extras. Just like your spare bike parts, the value of your free accessories can help with price negotiations.

In an additional article, I’ll cover the three final steps for getting top dollar for your bike including leveraging your maintenance records, effective pricing research and writing a successful classified ad.

Thursday, June 7, 2007

Motorcycle Accessories for Under 100 Dollars - Five Rider Favorites

By Jim Thompson

If you're gift shopping for your favorite motorcycle rider, it can be easy to overspend your budget. Many of the most popular accessories like a riding jacket or exhaust system can easily cost several hundred dollars. And with many high-end parts, there may be additional time and expense for the installation.

But not all popular bike accessories cost a fortune. With a little help, you can find plenty of motorcycle accessories for under a hundred dollars that are sure to please the biker in your life. So if you have a motorcycle fan on your shopping list, here are five gift ideas that they’re sure to like but won’t land you in the poor house.




1. Tool bags

A smaller alternative to a full set of motorcycle saddlebags, good-quality tool bags are available for under $50-$60. Having a few essential tools on the road can be a real lifesaver for a rider. Most tool bags mount to the front forks or sissy bars with hook and loop straps that most manufacturers include with purchase. Like full-sized saddlebags, the best-value tool bags are made of synthetic leather.

Look for tool bags that are designed with reinforced plastic so they maintain their shape over the long haul. And help keep valuables secure by looking for tool bags that include lockable buckles – many of the $50 models I’ve reviewed are the lockable variety.




2. Gas Tank Chaps/Bibs

A great way to complement the look of a new set of saddlebags, tanks chaps quickly add a custom look to a bike. Tank chaps fit under the gas cap or tank speedometer and rear tank mounting hardware. Almost all models have a scratch-resistant backing that will not harm a bike’s paint job.

Tanks chaps are available in genuine or synthetic leather, are a snap to install and are custom fit for each bike’s tank shape. Many also include a small storage pouch for a phone, wallet or keys. Most tank chaps are typically priced between $50 and $100.

3. Custom Brake & Clutch Levers

Aftermarket bike levers gives you a real bang for your buck. For around $20, you can get a new pair of custom chrome or alloy finish levers designed to fit each model bike. In addition to adding a custom look, custom levers are much more comfortable than stock levers. The wider design is easier on the fingers, especially when your rider’s caught in stop and go traffic.

For about the cost of a takeout dinner, you really can’t go wrong with a new pair of aftermarket levers.




4. Chrome Side Covers

Add a healthy dose of chrome to a motorcycle without needing a single wrench. Chrome side covers look great and replace the standard painted covers in a snap. The only catch is the covers are one of the more expensive accessories on our list – with prices starting at $95.

Side covers are designed specifically for each make and model bike and are typically sold in pairs. A great add-on if you’re looking for a custom part that offers your rider some instant gratification.







5. Saddlebags

Because they are so handy, saddlebags are the first accessory I get for a new bike. Saddlebags are essential for the long rides but also great for quick trips to the store. Even the smallest saddlebags can save a rider from cramming all of his or her stuff uncomfortably into pants pockets or riding jacket.

Many folks don’t realize you can get decent saddlebags for as little as $50. Smaller, throw-over saddlebags that hang from the seat or rear fender and do not require support brackets. I recommend synthetic materials over leather as they are more weather resistant and are typically less expensive than genuine leather models.

Sunday, June 3, 2007

Motorcycle Windshields Do More Than Add Oomph To A Bike

by James Gunaseelan



Motorcycle windshields do not just add oomph to a bike, they do much more. Among other things, they intercept discarded cigarette butts, bugs and other assorted highway missiles. They also conduct the all important task of redirecting airflow away from the rider's head and torso thus saving him from wind fatigue on long hauls.

Little wonder then that windshields are the most sought after accessory in the market. The demand has also spawned a whole range of windshields, each claiming its own USP. However, before buying one you must keep the following five points in mind:

1. The Fit: Try and get a windshield that's made by your own bike manufacturer. They are more likely to fit your bike seamlessly. You can also try the universal shield. This type is lightweight, handlebar-mounted and can be fitted on almost any bike. Universal windshields provide just a very basic shield between you and air.

2. The Plastic: It is important that the plastic has good optical properties. Distortion around the edges or near the curvature of a shield can be especially dangerous.

3. The Size: Bigger windshields do not always mean better protection. A high windshield might work well to block the icy wind but during the rains, it could become a wet wall that you can't look over. Short windshields are good because they let the cool breeze fan your face in hot weather, but they can cause havoc to your helmet when the wind is sharp. Much depends on the kind of bike you have and how you sit on it. The best is to sit on a bike and then check how the windshield will work.

4. The Height: A windshield that sits just below your line of vision while seated comfortably is a good option. You should be able to see over it without straining and yet be comfortable dropping your head down to look through the glass. In any case the height at which you are most comfortable is probably the right height. Sit before several windshields and you'll know which works for you.

5. The Mounting System: Check the mounting system before you buy the windshield. Mounting hardware can vary radically from shield to shield. While putting up your windshields make sure you don't bind cables or block either lighting or brake lines. Give controls and mirrors ample space. Make sure that nothing touches the windshield when the fork is fully compressed. Also make sure that the shield doesn't interfere with steering. Take a short test ride, but take it slow.