Safety Gear for Motorcycle Riders

Motorcyclists can attest to the exhilarating thrill that riding gives them. As the speed heightens, the adrenaline rush goes faster and the lump in the throat gets bigger. It's like no other feeling in the world-becoming one with the speed of the wind as you hear the motorcycle roar.

Yes, it can be a glorious feeling but the price to pay for this wondrous experience is high. Many deaths and injuries resulting from motorcycle related accidents worry many of us. A motorcycle because it has no outer cover to shield the rider like that of a car, exposes a rider to danger many times more than a car.

So what is the best way to protect yourself from possible accidents without having to give up the thing you love most? The answer lies in the protective gear that you can wear to prevent or minimize the severity of the injury that may possible occur. One important protective gear is the helmet. A helmet will protect your head from injuries like serious brain damage or internal hemorrhage that can result from getting the head hit in a crash.

Also important are your leather apparel including biker leather jackets , leather pants and boots. The biker leather jacket with its combination of armor and foam padding as well as patches in high impact areas of the body such as the shoulders and the elbows give a rider a protection against a variety of road elements such as road debris, heat and water.

More importantly, it can protect you from skin abrasions and minimize the injuries that you can possibly acquire when an accident occurs. It also provides insulation and gives you protection against wind, cold and the rain making the ride as comfortable as possible. Leather pants on the other hand protect the thighs and the legs from skin abrasions and burns that may result from a crash. Boots provide covering that also protect the calf from muffler burns.

Truly, motorcycle gear are not only for image's sake, to look cool, feel good or show off to everyone that, "hey, I'm a motorcycle rider!" The more significant function of these apparel is to provide safety and protection to the rider and to make sure that the thrill that comes with riding does not have a sad ending.

Every rider should remember though that protective gear will protect you as much as they can. But it is still in your hands to be careful on the road and to make your ride a safe one. You may don all the protective gear available but if you are neglectful and reckless, they can only do as much.

By Selene Marin

Change Motorcycle Engine Oil

Before you start changing your motorcycle engine oil, you must place the tools you need within reach. Include tools such as wrench, screwdrivers or pliers just in case the filler caps have been tightly screwed. You should also prepare rags and containers for the used oil. Your motorcycle must be placed in an area that you can afford to get dirty, messy and greasy after the changing process. It is advisable to raise your motorcycle using the kick-stand rather than the side or rear stands. Place the container under the motorcycle where you think the oil is going to flow.

The next thing that you should do is to warm up your engine. This is to soften any hard particles in your engine oil. Then turn the engine off to cool for a bit. Proceed removing the filler cap when the engine is slightly warm. This enables the oil to drain quickly. Use necessary tools if it is tightly screwed.
Locate the drain plug and doff it so that the oil would drain. During the last few turns at the drain plug, be cautious since the hot oil may start to spill out anytime soon. Make sure that the empty can is ready for the draining oil.
Remove the filthy drain plug crush washer and install a new one. Drain plug crush washers are either made from copper or aluminum. It is a small disc to be placed under the drain plug that helps in sealing the motorcycle engine oil. Drain plug crush washers are also made to bend under pressure. More or less, drain plug crush washers value at a dollar each - which means they're really very affordable, hence, there's simply no excuse for you not to get several pieces! Every month, or every time you change your motorcycle engine oil, make sure that you install a new drain plug crush washer afterwards.

Using a clean rag, wipe the tip of the oil drain plug. This is to remove small metallic particles in the magnetic part of the drain plug. Little pieces of silvers of metals are shed by the motorcycle engine. These tiny pieces are usually jammed at the edge or at the tip of the drain plug.

Look for the oil filter in your motorcycle. The location of the oil filter varies or depends on what motorcycle model you have. It is best to consult your manual so that you won't have a hard time finding it. Remove it tightly screwed filter using a filter removal tool. See to it that a rubber ring comes along with the filter as you take it off.

Clean the area of the motorcycle where the oil filter is located. Dip your finger into the fresh oil and use it to wipe the dirt on the location of the oil filter. Then carefully screw back a new oil filter.
Put the drain plug back and fill it up with new motorcycle engine oil. Make sure that it is already grime-free and fastened securely to prevent the oil from spilling. Put only an ample amount of motorcycle engine oil that is specified in your motorcycle manual.

By Mel Raskinski

Use and tune Harley carburetor for smooth ride

Harley, the name is not new in the domain of automobile accessories and devices. The carburetor from Harley Davidson is exclusively meant for a smooth ride on your bike. The Harley carburetor has a long life provided you tune it from time to time. You won’t face any kind of hassle in driving your bike if the tuning is done properly.

The process of tuning for better performance

Don’t think you won’t be able to do it and dump your bike in a garage. It is nothing like that. Things are rather simple and you can yourself conduct the process of tuning the Harley carburetor. The tuning becomes important for the maintenance of the carburetor.

Well to begin with remove the Harley carburetor from the main body of the engine. You cannot just open and remove it as if opening your shirt. A particular technique has to be followed. The fuel has to be removed from the carburetor bowl and only then you can clean the thing. The backing plate and the bolts are to be removed in parts and the choke cable has to be also taken off.

The throttle cables are next put down. Therefore one by one the individual parts are disassembled. You need not entirely open the throttle cables. When the carburetor bowl is cleaned with the carburetor cleaner and you set down to reset the arrangement, adjust the throttle cables in the right location.

Resetting of the cables and reinstallation of the carburetor

The final round of tuning is the process of reassembling and fixing up the cables along with the clean carburetor bowl. The problem you face while riding a bike in simple terms is the heating up of the engine. And you fail to judge that the problem lies with the carburetor. Most of the times you even decide to change the whole unit of the carburetor.

Such changes are not required in Haley’s carburetor. Simple tuning brings it back to the original performance. While tuning there is a chance of misplacing a cable or it can also be so that you cannot fix the exact cables in the right place. It is always suggested to tag or mark the cables used in a Harley carburetor. This will create no fuss either at the times of removal or at the times of resetting.

The wiring system attached to the cables of the carburetor is to be handled with care. Don’t damage the fine metal wires or else you will have to replace them and get new ones fixed up. After tuning your bike or specifically the Harley carburetor, take a short trip and enjoy the difference. You won’t complain any more about the engine.

by Thomas MacIntosh

Materials used in Mountains Choppers Bike

By Chris Martin

When it comes to choppers bike, one need to know about the materials that are used in it. Choppers bikes are in trend, mainly because it is been used for mountain riding. There are varieties of materials that could be used for a chopper bike, but if you require a durable one, just check out the following materials.

Steel
High quality steel bike is well in fashion today. As it becomes harder when welded the alloys like 853 is leading the renaissance. Its flexibility and reparability are further finding more new friends in the hardcore jump / DH arenas. Upcoming growth centers on further modification of alloys and tube sets. It is best to buy steel if you like that classic “spring heeled hard tail’. You then need to usually slam your aerial adventures.

Aluminum
The pleasure of aluminum is its low weight and that it's so trouble-free to play with. Stretch it, press it, emit it, forge it, or simply sculpt it - it's the Plasticine of metals. Just do not leave it too thin or it'll break without warning. You can purchase aluminum for: Sharp and crunchy feel. Buy for its high value and low weight. It is high price and especially low weight. Awkward shaped suspension bikes, fat tubes, huge box monocoques and other novelty machined sections.

Titanium
Titanium is the hardest metal to work with, it rewards with flexible long term strength, light weight and decay resistance but at five times the price of an aluminum frame. Serotta, Merlin, and other Seven are gradually pushing out the boundaries. Purchase titanium only for: Reliable “sprung” feel. It is of low weight and comes with high strength. You need not worry about the paint or rust, this chopper bike would be life time.

Carbon
Carbon fiber is the lightest, most durable and most shock porous frame material. Early breaks blemished its reputation, but three major brands are reinstating faith at the moment. Easton with its handlebars and other seat posts, Trek with their OCLV HC sandwich, and as well with Scott's long, thick fiber HMF skill on their Strike bikes. Buy carbon only if: You desire ultra low weight. You don't mind the damped, somewhat dull feel.

The History of Motorcycles in the Korean War

By Mel Raskinski

While the motorcycle is a taken for granted vehicle on the road these days, its role as a vehicle in war is often overlooked. In this article, the role of the motorcycle is explored in the context of the Korean War and the important role which it played during this conflict.

Motorcycle manufacturers have a long history of stepping up to the plate and delivering when their country is in need. During WWI and WWII, manufacturers such as Indian, Harley Davidson and Triumph provided machines to the military which were equipped to the exact specifications of the Pentagon. In fact, Harley Davidson produced over 90,000 machines for the U.S. military during WWII alone!

Early in the Korean War (August 1950), at least 45 motorcycles were destroyed during an abortive attempt to retreat. No, these weren't Harleys that were captured - they were North Korean motorcycles captured by the U.S. 25th Division, 3rd Battalion, 5th Marines. In fact, the newly formed North Korean Army (aided and trained by the Soviets and Chinese) had among its 90,000 men an entire motorcycle reconnaissance regiment. On this particular day, however,
the motorcycles met their match in the Corsairs that swooped down on them with their 20mm guns and rocket attacks.

On the North Korean side, the North Korean Army (NKA) used motorcycles equipped with saddlebags extensively. When the NKA took over Seoul in July of 1950, the 12th Motorcycle Regiment secured key crossroads at Ch'ungju that helped secure the central region and allow the NKA to capture the city. On the allied side, the 17th Motorcycle regiment assisted in routing
the NKA out of Seoul a short time later.

The main shift that took place during the Korean War was the replacement of the motorcycle by the Jeep in the U.S. Army. The motorcycle had apparently been replaced as the preferred vehicle for difficult terrain. The introduction of the Jeep was part of a comprehensive program the U.S. Introduced to replace aging vehicles from WWI (among which were the motorcycle and sidecars). While newer motorcycles were certainly used during the Korean War (as noted above), the Jeep replaced it in numerous areas where it had formerly known prominence.

Perhaps the real history of the Korean War and the motorcycle is one that will not be found by browsing through the history books or looking up dry numbers such as how many motorcycles were used in this or that raid for this or that purpose. The real history - the human history, may be summed up in the story of Mark Nozzolillo and his Honda Shadow. This is a picture of Mark's father, Vince.

Vince is a veteran of the Korean War who lost a friend on the battlefield in August of 1950. So shocked to see his buddy's body being carried out, the young man (then 20 years old) turned to his first sergeant and clung to him in an almost fetal position, sobbing uncontrollably. Nozzolillo himself said he "just went nuts" when he saw the sight. His son took the old photograph (first published in 1955) and had it airbrushed to the gas tank of his Honda.

The story here is one of the tragedies of war that we must all remember, and the tribute a father paid to his son. That this tribute was paid on airbrushed motorcycle is something all motorcycle enthusiasts can be proud of. It's a memory that Mark will have every time he rides his bike.

Motorbike Insurance - Are You Securely Covered?

By Andrew Regan

Motorbikes are becoming a more and more popular method of commuting in cities throughout the UK as roads become grid-locked with cars, trucks, buses and roadworks! Yet motorbikes still manage to weave their way through traffic and reach their destination on time - highlighting another benefit that biking has in comparison to driving a car. Not only can a motorbike traverse spaces that would be impossible in a car, motorbikes are also cheaper to maintain, have better fuel economy and it is much easier to find parking spaces in busy areas. In 2006 there were over 1.1million motorbikes registered in the UK, a figure which has gradually grown as popularity for biking rises.

In the UK, it is a legal requirement to be insured when driving on public roads. So, whether you’re a commuter who uses a motorbike to squeeze past gridlocked cars to get to your work on time, or a recreational rider exploring the UK’s country roads at the weekends, you’ll need adequate insurance cover to keep yourself and others protected while on the road.

However, it's not only when driving a motorbike that you need motorbike insurance. Due to the design and size of motorbikes, they can be stolen and removed by thieves far more easily than a car, and as a result most general insurance companies deem insuring motorbikes as a high risk. However some companies specialise in motorbike insurance and appreciate that this is not necessarily the case. In fact, providing the owner implements some basic security measures a motorbike can be as low risk to own as a car.

For example, motorbikes should be parked in well lit areas and the frame should be secured to a fixed object with a sturdy security chain. To further deter would-be thieves, fit an approved immobiliser to prevent the engine being started without the key, and install a Thatcham approved alarm. You could also have a tracking device fitted to help the Police track your motorbike in the event it should it be taken.

Owners should also buy an ultraviolet pen to mark their motorbike with personal details and keep a copy of the serial number of their motorbike, so that if their motorbike is stolen it can be traced back to the theives by the authorities. By taking precautions such as these, you can reduce your motorbike insurance premium.

The most common type of insurance chosen by owners is a comprehensive policy. This level of cover ensures that in the event of an accident the policy holder will be fully insured for the market value of their motorbike, as well as the repair cost of any damage caused to a third party by the policy holder. Some policies even cover policy holders for personal claims against them, which in today's litigious climate is certainly a comforting safeguard. This ensures that if you are unfortunate enough to have an accident, you won't have to cope with a huge financial burden too.

Motorcycle Riding in the Rain

By J. Blake

Dull grey skies today, a steady heavy rain, poor visibility. An opportunity to impress the crowd with a textbook demonstration of wet weather riding skills.

Starting with hardware. Motorcycle in good condition, especially tyres, the grooves good and deep to channel away water, no letting them wear flat with constant upright motorway riding, no messing about trying to extend their life because they look okayish. A helmet that won’t mist up. Clothes waterproof and breathable, they’re four years old now, never had any maintenance, I can ride through a downpour all day and not have a speck of moisture on me, miracle of modern fabrics. No trivial matter, comfort, a safety issue, you can tough stuff out for a while but it wears you down, you need your attention on staying alive not whether your feet are cold. Hi viz belts and bands, you can’t tell how many times you stay alive because some unnoticed driver sees you and doesn’t mow you down, but over time it’ll be quite a few.

Fifty percent increase in the safety bubble in front. Partly to stay out of the spray. Partly because braking distances are longer. Partly because if there’s trouble, you don’t brake, you accelerate. Braking puts the weight on the unstable front wheel, accelerating puts it on the stable back wheel. So you need space to accelerate into. Also, ride in a lower gear, use it to slow down without braking or accelerate without delaying.

Be real careful changing lanes, cars often leave their headlights off and they’re damn near invisible. Otherwise don’t worry about what’s behind you, let the hi viz stuff protect you there, concentrate on the trouble up front.

Ten mph slower than normal. That’s the deal. If you abrogate speeding limits to your own judgement, your position is a lot more compelling if you sometimes go slower, not always faster.

The game is, every time you hold back, you get a gold star. Here’s a gap I’d normally take, not today, one gold star. That doesn’t mean you have to be cowed and subdued, in fact often in the rain there’s an even greater need to filter past stuck traffic, just do it with less relish. Then collect the gold stars. But any rashness or impetuosity, all gold stars cancelled, start again.

Ten minutes later than normal for work, but a half hour margin allowed anyway, just for such contingencies. And about fifteen gold stars. Good start to the day.

Simple Tips on How to Clean Your Motorcycle

By Mike Webb

Cleaning your motorcycle can be a hassle, but with periodic care you can make it easy on yourself. Depending on where you ride and how often will determine how frequently you need to clean.

1. Wash your motorcycle in a shaded area so as not to let the soap dry too quickly and leave a film.
2. Make sure the engine has cooled down before washing with soap and water. When using a hose don't spray too hard around the engine so you won't short out the ignition system. If you have an air compressor use the air gun to blow out as much moister around the engine area as possible to dry it out.
3. Regular car soap will work best along with a wash mitt that will allow you to get around the areas of the bike. When you want to get to the really small nooks and crannies use a soft bristle toothbrush.
4. Wax all painted areas of the bike, there are many waxes available on the market to use, I just stick to the basic turtle wax, it's been around for years, but you might like to shop around.
5. Using an SOS pad can clean up minor rust on chrome pieces. Make sure you put a coat of wax after clearing.
6. Depending on your seat style you may want to use a leather treatment or possibly Armor All on the vinyl seat. Just remember it's going to be a little slick when you get done.
7. If your bike has a chain make sure you lubricate it properly after washing and check for any other areas that might need to be re-lubricated.
8. Lastly if you have a nice motorcycle cover then use it to save the hassle of cleaning so often.

Having a clean motorcycle makes it a lot more fun cruising.

Take care and drive safely.

New To Motorcycles? Learn The Basics

By Daniel Levy

SUMMARY: Interested in motorcycles? Who can blame you! Motorcycles reek of coolness, but before you jump into the motorcycle riding scene, you need to learn the basics of the bike!

Stand Up Straight Please

It's mind boggling how they do it, but motorcycles stay upright while they are moving due to some pretty advanced physics. A still motorcycle will lean over without some sort of support. But a moving motorcycle will stay upright without much effort thanks to a couple of little things called angular momentum and torque.

To see these physics at work, imagine that you're holding a bat in your palm with the heavy end up. It's going to tip over, right? It's too unsteady. Now imagine that you're wiggling your palm in an effort to always keep it directly under the heavy end of the bat. Suddenly the bat is steady. That's how motorcycles stay upright.

Driving forward on a motorcycle thanks to the power and torque provided by the engine, the rider (or the palm in our example) is constantly moving the bike (the bat in our example) to keep it directly inline with the center of gravity (that is, the heavy end of the bat in our example).

Yes, I know I am over-simplifying with this example. But in fact, it's basically the forward momentum and the rider constantly adjusting the center of gravity that will keep the motorcycle upright.

Going, Going, Go

Regardless of the varying motorcycle designs produced over the years, most bikes include some pretty standard operating configurations.

One of those is the arrangement of elements in the steering mechanism (the handlebar). On the right handle is the throttle and twisting it backward will give the engine more gas so the machine will accelerate (as long as the brakes are off). On the left handle is the clutch lever. Pulling it in and then releasing it will enable you to change gears. Some motorcycles have automatic shifting, but they are far and few between.

The gearshift on a motorcycle is normally under the rider's left foot. Riders will squeeze the clutch lever (left hand), ease off the gas (right hand), and move the gear shift up or down (left foot). Releasing the clutch (left hand) and twisting the throttle backward (right hand) will make the motorcycle move forward.

As you can see, there's a lot of left-right hand and foot action going on here and it's going to take a bit of practice to get it right. It'll be difficult to grasp at first, but with some practice, it becomes second nature.

Stopping the Motorcycle

Now that you know how to "go," it's time to learn how to stop! Attached onto the right handle grip is the front brake lever. This lever gives the motorcycle most of the friction it needs to slow down (about 80%). The friction is caused by pads squeezing against a metal disc (or drum in older bikes) in the center of the wheel. Since this particular lever is so powerful, it can even flip a bike if it's pulled too fast especially on downward slopes.

The rear brake lever is next to the right footrest. When it's pressed, it engages the rear brake mechanism. Push it too hard and you will make your rear tire skid.

Both, the rear brake lever and the front brake lever, will eventually bring a bike to a complete (but not necessarily) controlled stop if used individually. It's the correct combination of front and rear break power that will bring a bike to a smooth stop. Constantly pumping either one however will unduly wear your brakes down and loosen their effect ahead of time.

Bikes that have linked braking systems work a little differently. With this kind of system, the rear brake works with the front break because it engages part of it. As with the more traditional types of brake systems on a motorcycle, it's the combination and simultaneous use of both brakes that creates smooth stops.

So now you know how to go and stop. But what about turning the motorcycle off in an emergency? Almost every motorcycle today has a kill switch you can use in case need to hurry up and turn the thing off for whatever reason (failing brakes, you fall off, etc.).

Is that all I need to know?

Of Course not! There's a lot more to motorcycle riding but the above should give you a good idea of the overview.

Not all motorcycles operate in the same manner so some of things will work differently -- especially if you're attempting to ride an older bike that uses a kick starter! Newer models may offer GPS systems, custom suspension, and electronic de-fogging mirrors -- things that I haven't even touched on.

Remember to always wear your protective gear and enjoy the ride!

2-Stroke Cycles

By Mary Long

The two-stroke cycle of and internal combustion engine iffers from the more common four stroke cycle by completing the same four processes (intake, compression, power, exhaust) in only two strokes of the piston rather than four. This is accomplished by using the space below the piston for air intake and compression, thus allowing the chamber above the piston to be used for just the power and exhaust strokes. This causes there to be a power stroke for every revolution of the crank, instead of every second revolution as in a four-stroke engine. For this reason, two-stroke engines provide high specific power, so they are valued for use in portable, lightweight applications. On the other hand, large two stroke diesels have been in use in industry (i.e., locomotive engines) since the early twentieth century.

Power/exhaust: This stroke occurs immediately after the ignition of the charge. The piston is forced down. After a certain point, the top of the piston passes the exhaust port, and most of the pressurized exhaust gases escape. As the piston continues down, it compresses the air/fuel/oil mixture in the crankcase. Once the top of the piston passes the transfer port, the compressed charge enters the cylinder from the crankcase and any remaining exhaust is forced out.
Compression/intake: The air-fuel-oil mixture has entered the cylinder, and the piston begins to move up. This compresses the charge in the cylinder and draws a vacuum in the crankcase, pulling in more air, fuel, and oil from the carburetor. The compressed charge is ignited by the spark plug, and the cycle begins again.

In engines like the one described above, where some of the exhaust and intake charge are in the cylinder simultaneously the gasses are kept separate by careful timing and aiming of the transfer ports such that the fresh gas has minimal contact with the exiting exhaust which it is pushing ahead of itself.

Motorcycle Helmet

By Mark Byrne

'If you got a $50 head, then get yourself a $50 lid!'

That's the advice I was given before buying my first motorcycle helmet. It's the best buying advice I've ever had too! Choosing a motorcycle helmet is, in the end, a personal choice but it's pretty obvious that you generally get what you pay for.

There are various types, all of which have their strengths and weaknesses. Here's a list of the those available:

Full face motorcycle helmets provide the most protection of all the helmet types and they encase the rider's entire head. You may find some (the cheaper ones) lacking in comfort and freedom.

Hybrid or Flip-up face motorcycle helmets would give you more visibility but, as, if the 'flip' is 'up' it doesn't encase the entire head, the chin is left vulnerable.

Open face helmets also known as a three quarter motorcycle helmets provide protection for the skull, ears and the side of the face. This type of helmet has no chin protection at all. Also you'd need extra eye protection as they would be exposed to the wind, dirt, insects etc.

Shorty helmets also known as a half helmets provide no protection for the chin or the side of the face. Again, as with the open face type you'd need extra eye protection as they would be exposed to the wind, dirt, insects etc.

Motorcycle Helmet Buying Tips

Try on motorcycle helmets a number of times to detect possible 'problem' areas with the fit. Use a mirror to see how the helmet looks on your head; make sure that the helmet rests just above your brow. Make sure the helmet rests tightly against your forehead, you shouldn't be able to get your thumb between the helmet and your forehead. Always check to see if any red marks are showing after you've removed the helmet.

Always make sure that the motorcycle helmet you buy has been Snell certified, or is a DOT approved motorcycle helmet. If not, your insurance cover may be affected - check with your insurance company about this.

Noisy helmets are to be avoided as they distract the rider and cause extra fatigue. Lower quality ventilation systems are chief cause of noisy in helmets. The more aerodynamic the helmet and the better the vents, the less noise there will be. Generally, cheaper helmets are noisy helmets.

American motorcycle IronHorse - the best motorcycle

American Ironhorse Texas Chopper

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S Polished
Induction: S7S Super G
Exhaust: AIH
Transmission: AIH 6 Speed RSD
Clutch: Primo
Primary Drive: Chain
Final Drive: Belt
Charging Sys: 32 Amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 25 inches
Dry Weight: 650 lbs
MSRP: $30,995
Brakes
Front: AIH 4 piston
Rear: AIH 4 piston
Wheels
Front: 21x2.5
Rear: 18x10.5
Tires
Front: 21/90/90
Rear: 280/18
Suspension
Type: Softail
Front: AIH
Rear: Progressive Suspension
Frame: Daytec
Stretch: 8 In up / 4 In out
Rake: 38 Degrees / +4 Degree Trees
Trail: 3.4 In.
Swingarm: Daytec

American Ironhorse Slammer

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S Polished
Induction: S&S Super G
Exhaust: AIH
Transmission: AIH 6 Speed RSD
Clutch: Primo
Primary Drive: Chain
Final Drive: 1 1/2 in Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amp
Additional Information
Seat Height: 25 inches
Dry Weight: 650 lbs
MSRP: $34,995
Brakes
Front: AIH Dual 6 piston
Rear: AIH 6 piston
Wheels
Front: 21x2.5
Rear: 18x10.5
Tires
Front: 21/90/90
Rear: 280/18
Suspension
Type: Softail
Front: AIH
Rear: Progressive Air Tail
Frame: Daytec
Stretch: 2 in. out
Rake: 38 degrees / +4 degree trees
Trail: 3.4 in.
Swingarm: Daytec Stealth

American Ironhorse Outlaw

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S Polished
Induction: S&S Super G
Exhaust: AIH
Transmission: AIH 6 Speed RSD
Clutch: Primo
Primary Drive: Chain
Final Drive: 1 1/2 in Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 25 inches
Dry Weight: 650 lbs
MSRP: $29,895
Brakes
Front: AIH 4 piston
Rear: AIH 4 Piston
Wheels
Front: 21x2.5
Rear: 18x8.5
Tires
Front: 21/90/90
Rear: 240/18
Suspension
Type: Softail
Front: AIH
Rear: Progressive Suspension
Frame: Daytec
Stretch: 2 in. out
Rake: 38 degrees / + 4 degrees trees
Trail: 3.4 in
Swingarm: Daytec

American Ironhorse Tejas

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S Polished
Induction: S&S Super G
Exhaust: AIH
Transmission: AIH 6 Speed RSD
Clutch: Primo
Primary Drive: Chain
Final Drive: Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 24.75 inches
Dry Weight: 650 lbs
MSRP: $27,995
Brakes
Front: AIH 4 piston
Rear: AIH 4 Piston
Wheels
Front: 21x2.5
Rear: 18x10.5
Tires
Front: 21/90/90
Rear: 280/18
Suspension
Type: Rigid
Front: AIH
Rear: na
Frame: Daytec
Stretch: 8 inches up / 4 inches out
Rake: 38 degrees / + 4 degrees trees
Trail: 3.4 in
Swingarm: NA

American Ironhorse LSC

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S Polished
Induction: S&S Super G
Exhaust: AIH
Transmission: AIH 6 Speed RSD
Clutch: Primo
Primary Drive: Chain
Final Drive: Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 24.5 inches
Dry Weight: 650 lbs
MSRP: $29,495
Brakes
Front: AIH 4 piston
Rear: AIH 4 piston
Wheels
Front: 21x2.5
Rear: 18x10.5
Tires
Front: 21/90/90
Rear: 280/18
Suspension
Type: Rigid
Front: AIH
Rear: na
Frame: Daytec
Stretch: 8 In up / 4 In out
Rake: 38 Degrees / +4 Degree Trees
Trail: 3.4 In.
Swingarm: NA

American Performance Cycles High Roller 240 RSD

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 111ci S&S
Induction: S&S Carb
Exhaust: BUB
Transmission: 6 speed RSD
Clutch: na
Primary Drive: H-D
Final Drive: Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 26 inches
Dry Weight: 625 lbs
MSRP: $31,800
Brakes
Front: HHI
Rear: HHI
Wheels
Front: 21 inch
Rear: 18x8.5
Tires
Front: 90/90-21
Rear: 240mm
Suspension
Type: Softail
Front: 63 1/2 mm inverted 10in. over
Rear: Hidden shocks
Frame: APC
Stretch: 4 in. out / 7 in. up
Rake: 38 degrees
Trail: na
Swingarm: na

American Performance Cycles High Roller S

Engine & Drivetrain
Motor: 96ci S&S
Induction: S&S Carb
Exhaust: BUB
Transmission: 6 speed
Clutch:
Primary Drive: H-D
Final Drive: Belt
Charging Sys: 32 amps
Additional Information
Seat Height: 26 inches
Dry Weight: 625 lbs
MSRP: $25,995
Brakes
Front: HHI
Rear: HHI
Wheels
Front: 80 spoke
Rear: 80 spoke
Tires
Front: 90/90-21
Rear: 240mm
Suspension
Type: Softail
Front: 10 in. over
Rear: Hidden Shocks
Frame: APC
Stretch: 4 in. out, 7 in. up
Rake: 38 degrees
Trail: na
Swingarm: Softail

Motorcycle for Sale - Three Simple Steps for Getting Top Dollar for Your Bike

By Jim Thompson

When it comes time to sell your motorcycle, there are a few easy ways to help get a higher sale price. I’ve found that the steps below can put more cash in your pocket when it’s time to part with your current bike. Spending an hour or so of your time you can distinguish your motorcycle from the rest of the bikes for sale in your area.

And hopefully, you’re not giving-up on motorcycling with this sale but are planning to put the extra cash you’ll make towards your next bike purchase.

Clean & Polish Your Bike

Here’s where an hour of your time can pay off handsomely. It sounds corny but a clean, freshly-waxed motorcycle gives a great first impression of the bike AND the owner. Most experienced riders know that a super-clean used bike has usually been very well kept. And a well-maintained bike commands a premium price.

You don’t have to go too crazy cleaning, just a basic once-over should do the trick. To get the job done fast, I’ve found a handheld leaf blower is a handy tool to quickly dry off a wet bike before waxing. In a just a minute or two you can thoroughly dry your bike without jamming your fingers in all the crevices. So if you or your neighbor has a leaf blower, give it a try before you dig-out the car wax and chrome polish.

Dig-out All Your Original Parts

If you’ve had your bike for any length of time, it’s likely your have a few original bike parts collecting dust somewhere in your garage. I’m not talking about a worn tire or a bent lever but original equipment that’s still in decent shape. For almost every bike I buy this list includes the original seat, shocks, foot pegs and an exhaust system. These items can add to your sale price and are probably not much use to you anymore.

I’d take the time to dust this stuff off and have handy when you’re showing the bike.

Buyers will appreciate the extras and it won’t cost you a dime to include these parts in the sale. Even if you’ve just got a few smaller parts, they may help motivate a buyer that’s on the fence to make the purchase. Once you’ve found all the extras, do a rough tally of the cost for the new stuff you added to the bike. The total cost may surprise you and it’s a good dollar figure to have handy when you’re negotiation with buyers.

Include Any Accessories You No Longer Need

Once you’ve found the all extra parts for your bike, take a quick look through the house for any accessories that you no longer need. When I’m selling a bike, I like to throw-in any bike apparel or accessories that I’m tired of like old riding gloves, a bike jacket, spare helmet etc. Including last season’s riding gear is another low-cost way to add value to your sale.

And if you’re selling an entry-level bike, newer riders can likely use your old gear. At the very least, it’s a good opportunity to clean out your bike closet. As you find them, do a quick tally of the costs for your extras. Just like your spare bike parts, the value of your free accessories can help with price negotiations.

In an additional article, I’ll cover the three final steps for getting top dollar for your bike including leveraging your maintenance records, effective pricing research and writing a successful classified ad.

Motorcycle Accessories for Under 100 Dollars - Five Rider Favorites

By Jim Thompson

If you're gift shopping for your favorite motorcycle rider, it can be easy to overspend your budget. Many of the most popular accessories like a riding jacket or exhaust system can easily cost several hundred dollars. And with many high-end parts, there may be additional time and expense for the installation.

But not all popular bike accessories cost a fortune. With a little help, you can find plenty of motorcycle accessories for under a hundred dollars that are sure to please the biker in your life. So if you have a motorcycle fan on your shopping list, here are five gift ideas that they’re sure to like but won’t land you in the poor house.

1. Tool bags

A smaller alternative to a full set of motorcycle saddlebags, good-quality tool bags are available for under $50-$60. Having a few essential tools on the road can be a real lifesaver for a rider. Most tool bags mount to the front forks or sissy bars with hook and loop straps that most manufacturers include with purchase. Like full-sized saddlebags, the best-value tool bags are made of synthetic leather.

Look for tool bags that are designed with reinforced plastic so they maintain their shape over the long haul. And help keep valuables secure by looking for tool bags that include lockable buckles – many of the $50 models I’ve reviewed are the lockable variety.

2. Gas Tank Chaps/Bibs

A great way to complement the look of a new set of saddlebags, tanks chaps quickly add a custom look to a bike. Tank chaps fit under the gas cap or tank speedometer and rear tank mounting hardware. Almost all models have a scratch-resistant backing that will not harm a bike’s paint job.

Tanks chaps are available in genuine or synthetic leather, are a snap to install and are custom fit for each bike’s tank shape. Many also include a small storage pouch for a phone, wallet or keys. Most tank chaps are typically priced between $50 and $100.

3. Custom Brake & Clutch Levers

Aftermarket bike levers gives you a real bang for your buck. For around $20, you can get a new pair of custom chrome or alloy finish levers designed to fit each model bike. In addition to adding a custom look, custom levers are much more comfortable than stock levers. The wider design is easier on the fingers, especially when your rider’s caught in stop and go traffic.

For about the cost of a takeout dinner, you really can’t go wrong with a new pair of aftermarket levers.

4. Chrome Side Covers

Add a healthy dose of chrome to a motorcycle without needing a single wrench. Chrome side covers look great and replace the standard painted covers in a snap. The only catch is the covers are one of the more expensive accessories on our list – with prices starting at $95.

Side covers are designed specifically for each make and model bike and are typically sold in pairs. A great add-on if you’re looking for a custom part that offers your rider some instant gratification.

5. Saddlebags

Because they are so handy, saddlebags are the first accessory I get for a new bike. Saddlebags are essential for the long rides but also great for quick trips to the store. Even the smallest saddlebags can save a rider from cramming all of his or her stuff uncomfortably into pants pockets or riding jacket.

Many folks don’t realize you can get decent saddlebags for as little as $50. Smaller, throw-over saddlebags that hang from the seat or rear fender and do not require support brackets. I recommend synthetic materials over leather as they are more weather resistant and are typically less expensive than genuine leather models.

Motorcycle Windshields Do More Than Add Oomph To A Bike

by James Gunaseelan

Motorcycle windshields do not just add oomph to a bike, they do much more. Among other things, they intercept discarded cigarette butts, bugs and other assorted highway missiles. They also conduct the all important task of redirecting airflow away from the rider's head and torso thus saving him from wind fatigue on long hauls.

Little wonder then that windshields are the most sought after accessory in the market. The demand has also spawned a whole range of windshields, each claiming its own USP. However, before buying one you must keep the following five points in mind:

1. The Fit: Try and get a windshield that's made by your own bike manufacturer. They are more likely to fit your bike seamlessly. You can also try the universal shield. This type is lightweight, handlebar-mounted and can be fitted on almost any bike. Universal windshields provide just a very basic shield between you and air.

2. The Plastic: It is important that the plastic has good optical properties. Distortion around the edges or near the curvature of a shield can be especially dangerous.

3. The Size: Bigger windshields do not always mean better protection. A high windshield might work well to block the icy wind but during the rains, it could become a wet wall that you can't look over. Short windshields are good because they let the cool breeze fan your face in hot weather, but they can cause havoc to your helmet when the wind is sharp. Much depends on the kind of bike you have and how you sit on it. The best is to sit on a bike and then check how the windshield will work.

4. The Height: A windshield that sits just below your line of vision while seated comfortably is a good option. You should be able to see over it without straining and yet be comfortable dropping your head down to look through the glass. In any case the height at which you are most comfortable is probably the right height. Sit before several windshields and you'll know which works for you.

5. The Mounting System: Check the mounting system before you buy the windshield. Mounting hardware can vary radically from shield to shield. While putting up your windshields make sure you don't bind cables or block either lighting or brake lines. Give controls and mirrors ample space. Make sure that nothing touches the windshield when the fork is fully compressed. Also make sure that the shield doesn't interfere with steering. Take a short test ride, but take it slow.

How to Change a Motorcycle Tire

By James Thompson

There are many different methods people use when they are changing a motorcycle tire. Using the right or wrong techniques is the difference between a quick and clean 10 minute job and the worst hour of your life. By using the simple tips and techniques below you will save yourself a lot of nicks and even more grief. The most important part of a changing a motorcycle tire is coming prepared.

Before you even attempt to change a motorcycle tire you have to make sure you are equipped properly. You are going to need a tire iron, a valve stem tool, lubrication, a bead breaker, compressed air, and something to expand the tire bead. Attempting to change a motorcycle tire with the majority of this equipment is going to make the task much more aggravating.
The first step to changing a motorcycle tire is getting that old and useless tire off. First off you should use your valve stem tool to remove all of the air from the tire.

Next you are going to use your lubrication; this can be anything from dish soap or silicon spray on lubrication on both of the tire beads. You will also need to use your bead breaking tool to break both of the beads. Using your tire irons you will start removing the tire from the rim. Generally when you are changing a motorcycle tire you should place the tire irons four to seven inches apart.

Next you are going to insert the tube and align it with the approximate position of the valve stem. Once you have the tube in place you are going to need to add a small amount of air to it. This is done for two reasons while changing a motorcycle tire; first to help the tube retain most of it shape and secondly to help protect it from damage caused by the tire changing tools you are using. Lubricate the tire bead using the same type of lubrication you used before to get the old tire off.

Next use your breezer tire tool to slowing position the tire bead onto the wheel rim. Use a rotating method so that you are working the opposite beads, one after the other. Now the only step left is to inflate the tire. Using compressed air, or a handheld pump, no stronger than 55 PSI inflate the tire and your changing a motorcycle tire experience in done!

How to maintain you new bike

By James Thompson

You have just bought a new bike and want to know all about maintenance. This is what we are here to do. Don’t worry maintaining a bike is not that big an issue. You just need to know a few things and you can keep your bike as good as new. It is important that you get to know the main parts of your bike before attempting any kind of operations on it.

The beginner’s manual

Reading the manual can be very useful in the long run. So in the excitement of riding your bike again and again do not forget to read the manual of the bike for your own benefit. So that next time someone says exhaust pipe you know exactly that this is the tube that is used to lead the waste gases away from the machine. And when someone says Baffle you know that it means a device to reduce the noise produced by your vehicle. After you read it, its important to locate important parts of your bike so that in the time of the need you exactly know where to look.

Be sure what you are tying

When it comes to maintenance there are a lot of things you should keep in mind. The very first being that you ought to be very sure of what you are doing while handling your machine or you may cause some serious damage to it. In this process you should be sure that what ever you are trying is tried and tested and not some experiment that you think may work. In case you are not sure then it is always better to trust the local garage than your own instincts. After all, a bike like this may not be yours very often, so take good care of it.

Maintenance of important parts

The manuals very nicely describe how to maintain your bike. If you follow them you will be pretty safe. But still a few things to keep in mind are:

1. Regularly checking your chain gang can be a very beneficial for your bike as it can save you from any unwanted and untimely breakdown. Dirt, water and such things can be a big enemy to the proper functioning of your bike. Clean it properly and oil it regularly to keep it new and in the best condition.
2. Lubricating your chain and other parts of your bike is very important as well. You should know what oil to use and how frequently to lubricate it.
3. Tightening and adjusting of your chain is an important factor as well.
4. It is imperative that you remove the screws of your oil filter cover in the proper way using the proper tools. Do not go for something you don’t trust and is cheap. By the best tool to ensure that your bike gets the best service.

There are many more rules like this that can help you make the life of your bike longer than usual. It will run smoothly and gives you the best performance. Not only this making sure that it gets due maintenance will ensure that it looks good and sparkling clean always to make the best impression on the people who see you on it. So get over the myth that a dirty bike can make you look manly and keep it clean enough to be known for you softer and sauvé side.

Bikers Run Your World - So Appreciate Us

By Scott Lawrence Clark

SUMMARY: They may not like that we are dangerous and love a good thrill, but we run your world. Literally. They will find a biker in the courthouse, police station, fire station, retail shop and local gas station, and more so respect us.

I know that when a biker blows by them on the highway a piece of them is pissed. A part of them wants to step on the gas and catch up with him or her and flick 'em off. That would be so relieving for them, I know. But if they stopped just for a moment and thought about who they are chasing down they would be surprised at who they would find under that helmet. Is he or she going to take on their next court case? Does that biker perform surgery on their child when they are in need? We put out their fires, we arrest criminals, we sell them their favorite shoes, we build their cars, we file their mortgage, and yes, we even write their legislature. Bikers are everywhere and we are growing in numbers and demanding respect.

There has always been this hostility between bikers and the drivers who share our road. Why? Is it jealousy? Do they wish they could take on the dangerous and unexpected? Is it fear of the unknown? They see all black leather in the hottest weather and hear a loud screaming exhaust pipe and immediately lock their daughters in doors. Why is this?

Well, I think we can all agree that the hostility against bikers is very fear based. But despite the fact that they fear us they need to recognize that they need us. It's actually quite humorous when I discuss this topic with non-riders and they try to explain to me that, "bikers' are disrespectful, selfish and rude individuals that act as if they own the road." That is a direct quote, but I'd love to hear her say that when her house is burning to the ground. Is she going to hand pick her firemen and make sure they are not 'selfish' bikers?