Saturday, December 1, 2007

Change Motorcycle Engine Oil

Before you start changing your motorcycle engine oil, you must place the tools you need within reach. Include tools such as wrench, screwdrivers or pliers just in case the filler caps have been tightly screwed. You should also prepare rags and containers for the used oil. Your motorcycle must be placed in an area that you can afford to get dirty, messy and greasy after the changing process. It is advisable to raise your motorcycle using the kick-stand rather than the side or rear stands. Place the container under the motorcycle where you think the oil is going to flow.

The next thing that you should do is to warm up your engine. This is to soften any hard particles in your engine oil. Then turn the engine off to cool for a bit. Proceed removing the filler cap when the engine is slightly warm. This enables the oil to drain quickly. Use necessary tools if it is tightly screwed.
Locate the drain plug and doff it so that the oil would drain. During the last few turns at the drain plug, be cautious since the hot oil may start to spill out anytime soon. Make sure that the empty can is ready for the draining oil.
Remove the filthy drain plug crush washer and install a new one. Drain plug crush washers are either made from copper or aluminum. It is a small disc to be placed under the drain plug that helps in sealing the motorcycle engine oil. Drain plug crush washers are also made to bend under pressure. More or less, drain plug crush washers value at a dollar each - which means they're really very affordable, hence, there's simply no excuse for you not to get several pieces! Every month, or every time you change your motorcycle engine oil, make sure that you install a new drain plug crush washer afterwards.

Using a clean rag, wipe the tip of the oil drain plug. This is to remove small metallic particles in the magnetic part of the drain plug. Little pieces of silvers of metals are shed by the motorcycle engine. These tiny pieces are usually jammed at the edge or at the tip of the drain plug.

Look for the oil filter in your motorcycle. The location of the oil filter varies or depends on what motorcycle model you have. It is best to consult your manual so that you won't have a hard time finding it. Remove it tightly screwed filter using a filter removal tool. See to it that a rubber ring comes along with the filter as you take it off.

Clean the area of the motorcycle where the oil filter is located. Dip your finger into the fresh oil and use it to wipe the dirt on the location of the oil filter. Then carefully screw back a new oil filter.
Put the drain plug back and fill it up with new motorcycle engine oil. Make sure that it is already grime-free and fastened securely to prevent the oil from spilling. Put only an ample amount of motorcycle engine oil that is specified in your motorcycle manual.

By Mel Raskinski

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Use and tune Harley carburetor for smooth ride

Harley, the name is not new in the domain of automobile accessories and devices. The carburetor from Harley Davidson is exclusively meant for a smooth ride on your bike. The Harley carburetor has a long life provided you tune it from time to time. You won’t face any kind of hassle in driving your bike if the tuning is done properly.

The process of tuning for better performance

Don’t think you won’t be able to do it and dump your bike in a garage. It is nothing like that. Things are rather simple and you can yourself conduct the process of tuning the Harley carburetor. The tuning becomes important for the maintenance of the carburetor.

Well to begin with remove the Harley carburetor from the main body of the engine. You cannot just open and remove it as if opening your shirt. A particular technique has to be followed. The fuel has to be removed from the carburetor bowl and only then you can clean the thing. The backing plate and the bolts are to be removed in parts and the choke cable has to be also taken off.

The throttle cables are next put down. Therefore one by one the individual parts are disassembled. You need not entirely open the throttle cables. When the carburetor bowl is cleaned with the carburetor cleaner and you set down to reset the arrangement, adjust the throttle cables in the right location.

Resetting of the cables and reinstallation of the carburetor

The final round of tuning is the process of reassembling and fixing up the cables along with the clean carburetor bowl. The problem you face while riding a bike in simple terms is the heating up of the engine. And you fail to judge that the problem lies with the carburetor. Most of the times you even decide to change the whole unit of the carburetor.

Such changes are not required in Haley’s carburetor. Simple tuning brings it back to the original performance. While tuning there is a chance of misplacing a cable or it can also be so that you cannot fix the exact cables in the right place. It is always suggested to tag or mark the cables used in a Harley carburetor. This will create no fuss either at the times of removal or at the times of resetting.

The wiring system attached to the cables of the carburetor is to be handled with care. Don’t damage the fine metal wires or else you will have to replace them and get new ones fixed up. After tuning your bike or specifically the Harley carburetor, take a short trip and enjoy the difference. You won’t complain any more about the engine.

by Thomas MacIntosh

Friday, November 2, 2007

Materials used in Mountains Choppers Bike

By Chris Martin

When it comes to choppers bike, one need to know about the materials that are used in it. Choppers bikes are in trend, mainly because it is been used for mountain riding. There are varieties of materials that could be used for a chopper bike, but if you require a durable one, just check out the following materials.

Steel
High quality steel bike is well in fashion today. As it becomes harder when welded the alloys like 853 is leading the renaissance. Its flexibility and reparability are further finding more new friends in the hardcore jump / DH arenas. Upcoming growth centers on further modification of alloys and tube sets. It is best to buy steel if you like that classic “spring heeled hard tail’. You then need to usually slam your aerial adventures.

Aluminum
The pleasure of aluminum is its low weight and that it's so trouble-free to play with. Stretch it, press it, emit it, forge it, or simply sculpt it - it's the Plasticine of metals. Just do not leave it too thin or it'll break without warning. You can purchase aluminum for: Sharp and crunchy feel. Buy for its high value and low weight. It is high price and especially low weight. Awkward shaped suspension bikes, fat tubes, huge box monocoques and other novelty machined sections.

Titanium
Titanium is the hardest metal to work with, it rewards with flexible long term strength, light weight and decay resistance but at five times the price of an aluminum frame. Serotta, Merlin, and other Seven are gradually pushing out the boundaries. Purchase titanium only for: Reliable “sprung” feel. It is of low weight and comes with high strength. You need not worry about the paint or rust, this chopper bike would be life time.

Carbon
Carbon fiber is the lightest, most durable and most shock porous frame material. Early breaks blemished its reputation, but three major brands are reinstating faith at the moment. Easton with its handlebars and other seat posts, Trek with their OCLV HC sandwich, and as well with Scott's long, thick fiber HMF skill on their Strike bikes. Buy carbon only if: You desire ultra low weight. You don't mind the damped, somewhat dull feel.